Letter · 1891

To the Chekhovs, April 1891. Naples.

ЧЕХОВЫМ, 7 (19) апреля 1891 г. Неаполь.

Headnote

A letter of 7 (19) April 1891, from Naples, addressed jointly to the Chekhov family (, as the envelope names her, and implicitly the household at large) – part of the celebrated spring 1891 European travel series with Suvorin (Vienna, Venice, Florence, Rome, Naples, on to Nice and Paris). dateline, header date, an account of touring Pompeii, a comic description of the ascent of Vesuvius, the descent and the ride back by moonlight, a rueful note on travel debts, a reproach for the family’s silence, closing regards and signature, then the envelope address broken into its own lines (return address, city, street, and addressee).

Chekhov describes touring the ruins of Pompeii the day before, admiring Roman skill at combining simplicity with comfort and beauty. Lunch and good red wine send him up Vesuvius on horseback; the ascent (2:30 to 6:00) is rendered as slapstick suffering – ash, lava, two steps forward and one back – building to a vivid, almost infernal description of the crater itself: sulfurous ground, foul white smoke, flying cinders, a mixed roar of sound, and "Satan" snoring beneath the smoke; he says he now believes in hell, and notes the lava is hot enough to melt a copper coin. The descent is just as bad, and he rides back through moonlit villages thinking of Lika Lenskaya. He turns to money – the trip has run up a thousand rubles of debt against an expected three hundred, with hope pinned on amateur productions of his play "The Bear" – then chides the family for not writing and not telling him whether they have found a dacha for the summer. He signs off affectionately as "Antoine," his usual epistolary persona, and the final sections reproduce the envelope: addressed in French/Russian convention to Russia, Moscow, Malaya Dmitrovka, the Firgang house, to Maria Pavlovna Chekhova.

7 (19) April 1891. Naples.
7 (19) апреля 1891 г. Неаполь.
7 April. Naples.
7 апрель. Неаполь.
Yesterday I was in Pompeii and went round it. It is, as you know, a Roman city that was buried in the year 79 after the Birth of Christ under the lava and ash of Vesuvius. I walked through the streets of this city and saw houses, temples, theaters, squares... I saw, and marveled at the Romans’ skill in combining simplicity with comfort and beauty.
Вчера я был в Помпее и осматривал ее. Это, как вам известно, римский город, засыпанный в 79 году по Рожд Хр лавою и пеплом Везувия. Я ходил по улицам сего города и видел дома, храмы, театры, площади... Видел и изумлялся уменью римлян сочетать простоту с удобством и красотою.
Having gone round Pompeii, I lunched at a restaurant, then decided to set off up Vesuvius. This decision was greatly assisted by the excellent red wine I had drunk. As far as the foot of Vesuvius one had to go on horseback. Today, on that account, certain parts of my frail body have a feeling as though I had been in the third section and got flogged there. What a torment it is to climb Vesuvius! Ash, mountains of lava, frozen waves of molten minerals, hummocks and every kind of nastiness. You take a step forward and – half a step back, the soles of your feet ache, your chest grows heavy... You walk and walk and walk, and the summit is still far off. You think: shouldn’t I turn back? But turning back is shameful, they’ll laugh at you. The ascent began at half past two and ended at six. The crater of Vesuvius is several sazhens across. I stood at its edge and looked down, as into a bowl. The ground all around, coated with a film of sulfur, smokes heavily. A white, foul-smelling smoke pours out of the crater, spatter and red-hot stones fly up, and beneath the smoke Satan lies snoring. The noise is a rather mixed one: you hear in it the surf of waves, and the thunder of heaven, and the clatter of rails, and the fall of planks. It is very frightening, and at the same time you want to jump down, right into the very mouth. I believe in hell now. The lava is at such a high temperature that a copper coin melts in it.
Осмотрев Помпею, завтракал в ресторане, потом решил отправиться на Везувий. Такому решению сильно способствовало выпитое мною отличное красное вино. До подошвы Везувия пришлось ехать верхом. Сегодня по этому случаю у меня в некоторых частях моего бренного тела такое чувство, как будто я был в третьем отделении и меня там выпороли. Что за мученье взбираться на Везувий! Пепел, горы лавы, застывшие волны расплавленных минералов, кочки и всякая пакость. Делаешь шаг вперед и – полшага назад, подошвам больно, груди тяжело... Идешь, идешь, идешь, а до вершины всё еще далеко. Думаешь: не вернуться ли? Но вернуться совестно, на смех поднимут. Восшествие началось в 2 1/2 часа и кончилось в 6. Кратер Везувия имеет несколько сажен в диаметре. Я стоял на краю его и смотрел вниз, как в чашку. Почва кругом, покрытая налетом серы, сильно дымит. Из кратера валит белый вонючий дым, летят брызги и раскаленные камни, а под дымом лежит и храпит сатана. Шум довольно смешанный: тут слышится и прибой волн, и гром небесный, и стук рельс, и падение досок. Очень страшно и притом хочется прыгнуть вниз, в самое жерло. Я теперь верю в ад. Лава имеет до такой степени высокую температуру, что в ней плавится медная монета.
Going down is just as vile as going up. You sink to your knees in the ash. I am terribly tired. I rode back on horseback through little villages and past country houses; it smelled magnificent and the moon was shining. I sniffed, gazed at the moon, and thought about it – that is, about Lika Lenskaya.
Спускаться так же скверно, как и подниматься. По колена грузнешь в пепле. Я страшно устал. Возвращался назад верхом через деревушки и мимо дач; пахло великолепно и светила луна. Я нюхал, глядел на луну и думал о ней, т. е. о Лике Ленской.
All summer, gentlemen and ladies, we shall have no money, and the thought of it spoils my appetite. For a trip which I alone would have made for 300 rubles, I have run up a debt of a thousand. My whole hope rests on the amateur fools who are going to perform my "Bear."
Всё лето у нас, господа дворяне, не будет денег, и мысль об этом портит мне аппетит. За поездку, которую я solo совершил бы за 300 руб., я задолжал тысячу. Вся надежда на дураков любителей, которые будут играть моего "Медведя".
Have you found a dacha, signori? You are behaving toward me like swine, you write me nothing, and I do not know what is going on at home or how.
Нашли ли вы, синьоры, дачу? Вы поступаете со мною по-свински, ничего не пишете мне, и я не знаю, что и как дома.
I bow low to you all. Fare well, and do not forget entirely
Кланяюсь всем низко. Будьте благополучны и не забывайте окончательно вашего
On the envelope:
На конверте:
Russie, Moscou.
Russie, Moscou.
Moscow, Malaya Dmitrovka, the Firgang house
Москва, Мл. Дмитровка, д. Фирганг

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