Letter · 1890

To N. A. Leikin, 20 June 1890. Shilka pod Gorbitsei.

Н. А. ЛЕЙКИНУ, 20 июня 1890 г. Шилка под Горбицей.

Headnote

A letter to Nikolai Alexandrovich Leikin, the editor and publisher (of Oskolki, "Fragments," the Petersburg humor weekly where Chekhov had placed hundreds of early sketches under the pen name Antosha Chekhonte) who remained a regular correspondent and something of a literary patron in Chekhov’s early career. Written on 20 June 1890, about ten weeks into Chekhov’s overland and river journey across Siberia to the penal colony on Sakhalin Island, undertaken chiefly to conduct a census and survey of the convict and settler population there (the basis of Ostrov Sakhalin). The dateline is given twice – once at the head of the letter as written, and again, slightly compressed, as Chekhov restates it in section 2 – reflecting that the letter was composed in transit and picked up again as the boat neared Gorbitsa; this doubling is in the source and has been preserved rather than harmonized.

The letter covers the crossing of Lake Baikal (which he calls, following local usage, a "sea" rather than a lake, and describes for its clarity and turquoise color) and the overland leg across Transbaikalia by horse – more than 4000 versts (roughly 4300 km / 2670 miles) without incident, he reports, losing only a penknife, and dismissing tales of escaped convicts and night attacks on the road as folklore. He is now traveling by riverboat down the Shilka toward its confluence with the Amur, sitting in a first-class cabin and feeling, by contrast with the overland stretch, as if back in Europe. The letter breaks off for a boat whistle signaling arrival at Gorbitsa, with Chekhov uncertain whether he will have time to post it there or must wait for the next stanitsa, Pokrovskaya – a concrete detail of just how infrequently mail moved along the Amur (he says three times a month at best). He closes with greetings to Leikin’s wife and son and signs off, then adds what reads as an afterthought or marginal note (section 11): the beauty of the Shilka’s banks undercut by the oppressiveness of the region’s emptiness, imaged as "a cage without a bird" – a rare moment in this letter where Chekhov supplies something closer to a mood than a fact, worth flagging for readers who know him mainly as the reticent, objective narrator of the fiction.

20 June 1890. Shilka below Gorbitsa.
20 июня 1890 г. Шилка под Горбицей.
Gorbitsa, 20 June.
Горбица, 20 июня.
Greetings, most kind Nikolai Alexandrovich! I write you this as I approach Gorbitsa, one of the Cossack stanitsas on the bank of the Shilka, a tributary of the Amur. So this is where I’ve fetched up! I am sailing down the Amur.
Здравствуйте, добрейший Николай Александрович! Пишу Вам сие, приближаясь к Горбице, одной из казацких станиц на берегу Шилки, притока Амура. Вот куда меня занесло! Плыву по Амуру.
From Irkutsk I sent you a letter. Did you get it? More than a week has passed since then, in the course of which I crossed Lake Baikal and travelled across Transbaikalia. Baikal is astonishing, and it’s not for nothing that Siberians call it not a lake but a sea. The water is extraordinarily transparent, so that you can see through it as through air; its color is a soft turquoise, pleasant to the eye. The shores are mountainous, covered with forests; all around, an impenetrable, pitch-dark wilderness. An abundance of bears, sables, wild goats, and every kind of wild creature, whose whole occupation is living in the taiga and snacking on one another. I spent two days and nights on the shore of Baikal.
Из Иркутска я послал Вам письмо. Получили ли? С того времени прошло больше недели, в продолжение которой я переплыл Байкал и проехал Забайкалье. Байкал удивителен, и недаром сибиряки величают его не озером, а морем. Вода прозрачна необыкновенно, так что видно сквозь нее, как сквозь воздух; цвет у нее нежно-бирюзовый, приятный для глаза. Берега гористые, покрытые лесами; кругом дичь непроглядная, беспросветная. Изобилие медведей, соболей, диких коз и всякой дикой всячины, которая занимается тем, что живет в тайге и закусывает друг другом. Прожил я на берегу Байкала двое суток.
While I was sailing, it was calm and hot.
Когда плыл, было тихо и жарко.
Transbaikalia is magnificent. It is a mixture of Switzerland, the Don, and Finland.
Забайкалье великолепно. Это смесь Швейцарии, Дона и Финляндии.
I traveled more than 4000 versts by horse. The journey went entirely well. The whole time I was healthy, and of all my baggage I lost only a penknife. God grant everyone such a journey. The road is entirely safe, and all those stories about escaped convicts, about night attacks and so on, are nothing but tall tales, legends of things long past. A revolver is a wholly unnecessary thing. Now I am sitting in a first-class cabin and feel myself in Europe. My mood is such as if I had just passed an examination.
Проехал я на лошадях более 4000 верст. Путешествие было вполне благополучное. Всё время был здоров и из всего багажа потерял только перочинный нож. Дай бог всякому так ездить. Путь вполне безопасный, и все эти рассказы про беглых, про ночные нападения и проч. не что иное, как сказки, предания о давно минувшем. Револьвер совершенно лишняя вещь. Теперь я сижу в каюте первого класса и чувствую себя в Европе. Такое у меня настроение, как будто я экзамен выдержал.
A whistle. This is Gorbitsa. Well, goodbye, keep well, keep safe. If I have time, I’ll drop this letter in the box; if not, I’ll wait until Pokrovskaya stanitsa, where I’ll be tomorrow. Mail from the Amur goes out rarely, hardly three times a month.
Свисток. Это Горбица. Ну, до свиданья, будьте здоровы, благополучны. Если успею, то опущу это письмо в ящик, если же нет, то погожу до Покровской станицы, где буду завтра. Почта с Амура идет редко, чуть ли не 3 раза в месяц.
Greetings to Praskovya Nikiforovna and Fedya.
The banks of the Shilka are beautiful, just like a stage set, but alas! one senses something oppressive in this unbroken emptiness. Just like a cage without a bird.
Берега у Шилки красивые, точно декорация, но увы! чувствуется что-то гнетущее от этого сплошного безлюдья. Точно клетка без птицы.

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To N. A. Leikin, 20 June 1890. Shilka pod Gorbitsei.

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