Letter · 1891

To the Chekhovs, April 1891. Rome.

ЧЕХОВЫМ, 1 (13) апреля 1891 г. Рим.

Headnote

Written the day the party reached Rome, following directly on the Florence dispatch of 30 March (11 April) and the companion letter to M. V. Kiseleva of the same date, during the well-known spring 1891 European tour with Alexei Sergeyevich Suvorin.

Chekhov reports finding no letters waiting for him in Rome, while the Suvorins received several – he threatens, in his usual teasing register, to stop writing home altogether, then immediately undercuts the threat by admitting travel without news is unbearable, and asks after the dacha arrangements and the mongoose. He lists the sights seen (St. Peter’s, the Capitol, the Colosseum, the Forum, even a caf\’e-chantant) but says the pleasure has been dampened by changeable, chilly-then-warm weather. He reflects that Italy is cheap to see on a modest budget, but that traveling with Suvorin means grand hotels instead – in Venice "like doges," in Rome "like cardinals," in a suite of the Hotel Minerva that was once a cardinal’s palace, at 40 francs a day. He complains of an aching back and burning soles from all the walking, remarks that he finds it strange Levitan disliked Italy since he himself would happily winter there as a solitary artist with money, given how the country convinces one that art is the ruler of everything. He closes with brief health wishes and general regards, and signs "Your A. Chekhov."

1 (13) April 1891. Rome.
1 (13) апреля 1891 г. Рим.
1 April. Rome.
1-го апреля. Рим.
Arriving in Rome, I went to the post office and did not find a single letter there. The Suvorins got several letters apiece. I resolved to answer you in kind, that is, not to write to you at all, but God be with you! I am no great hunter after letters, but on a journey there is nothing worse than not knowing. How did you settle the dacha question? Is the mongoose alive? and so on and so forth.
Приехавши в Рим, пошел на почту и не нашел там ни одного письма. Суворины получили по нескольку писем. Я решил отвечать вам тем же, т. е. не писать вам вовсе, но бог с вами! Я до писем не охотник, но в путешествии нет ничего хуже, как неизвестность. Как вы решили дачный вопрос? Жив ли мангус? и проч. и проч.
I have been to St. Peter’s, to the Capitol, to the Colosseum, to the Forum, even to a caf\’e-chantant, but I have not gotten the enjoyment out of it I was counting on. The weather is against it. It is raining. In an autumn coat one is hot, and in a summer one, cold.
Был я в храме Петра, в Капитолии, в Колизее, на Форуме, был даже в кафешантане, но не получил того наслаждения, на какое рассчитывал. Мешает погода. Идет дождь. В осеннем пальто жарко, а в летнем холодно.
Traveling is very cheap. One can go to Italy with only 400 rubles and come home with purchases to spare. If I were traveling alone, or say with Ivan, I would bring home the conviction that a trip to Italy is far cheaper than one to the Caucasus. But alas, I am with Suvorin... In Venice we lived in the best hotel, like doges; here in Rome we live like cardinals, because we occupy the Salon in what was once the palace of Cardinal Conti, and is now the hotel "Minerva" – two large drawing rooms, chandeliers, carpets, fireplaces, and all manner of useless nonsense, costing us 40 francs a day.
Путешествие очень дешево. Можно съездить в Италию, имея только 400 руб., и вернуться домой с покупками. Если бы я путешествовал один или, положим, с Иваном, то привез бы домой убеждение, что в Италию съездить гораздо дешевле, чем на Кавказ. Но, увы, я с Сувориным... В Венеции мы жили в лучшем отеле, как дожи, здесь, в Риме, живем, как кардиналы, потому что занимаем Salon в бывшем дворце кардинала Конти, а ныне в отеле "Minerva"; две больших гостиных, люстры, ковры, камины и всякая ненужная чепуха, стоящая нам 40 франков в сутки.
From all the walking my back aches and my soles are on fire. It’s dreadful how much we walk!
От хождения болит спина и горят подошвы. Ужас, сколько ходим!
It is strange to me that Levitan did not care for Italy. It is an enchanting country. If I were a solitary artist and had money, I would live here through the winter. For Italy, not to speak of her nature and her warmth, is the one country where a man becomes convinced that art is truly king of all, and such a conviction gives courage.
Мне странно, что Левитану не понравилась Италия. Это очаровательная страна. Если бы я был одиноким художником и имел деньги, то жил бы здесь зимою. Ведь Италия, не говоря уж о природе ее и тепле, единственная страна, где убеждаешься, что искусство в самом деле есть царь всего, а такое убеждение дает бодрость.
I am well. Be well yourselves. My regards to everyone.
Я здоров. Будьте и вы здоровы. Всем кланяюсь.

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